26 August 2009

Home Sweet Home

After a stresstul week in the big city, I was more than ready to venture on. It is a 14 hour bus ride to get to McLeod Ganj, 14 LONG hours. I met up with two fellow volunteers in Delhi and made the journey up with them. As we waited for the bus, a young boy repeatedly asked me "one second madam. Please, one second." Finally he said what he wanted for one second, to put his hand inside my shirt! Not sure if I mentioned that majority of the Indian men are very disrespectful and foward, but that was just a bit over the top. So relieved to see the bus. 14 hours in a vehicle, wether its a bus or a car, is just too long. (100 miles is a long drive inside a car- Modest Mouse) The driver was a maniac, he was speeding through these mountains, getting tossed around, sleep wasnt really an option.
Once I stepped off the bus, I was stunned by the beauty of this town. McLeod Ganj sits in the foothills of the Himilayas and it is currently monsoon season, so everything is green. You are always passing monks and nuns walking down the street, as well as many westerners coming for meditation and yoga retreats. McLeod Ganj is also home to thousands of Tibetan refugees. (1959 China took over Tibet and wanted to put an end to the lives of anyone who still supported the Dalai Lama. Just about everyone who is now in this town, walked from China, through Nepal and down into McLeod Ganj, India, which is also home to the Dalai Lama).
My first week I began teaching english, and couldn't believe how much I enjoy myself. The students are so eager to learn and they are grateful to everyone volunteering their time to help them. I love seeing their smiling faces and they are soooo funny! They say as Buddhists, its very important to laugh at least three times a day. Honestly, who wouldn't appreciate this philosophy? This past week I started volunteering at Tong- Len in the morning's, however it was 1 hour plus commute each way, and was only teaching 2 hours. So I decided to find a different school/organization in this town.
I have been here two weeks and I must say it feels like home, minus the awsome Visalia music scene. Just sitting in cafes, I picked up two students I will tutor privately. Walking down the street, I run into students and we usually go for tea or some momo's. I was suprised to have such a sense of community here, I must confess, I think I am falling in love with this place, these people.

Jaipur



















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20 August 2009

Driving Miss Daisy

After my first couple of days in Delhi, I planned a trip to Agra. My friend Prince, gave me an extremely cheap rate to have a car take me to Agra, Jaipur and back to Delhi, and considering I packed one suitcase too many, the train really wasnt an option. It was a 5 hour car ride over to Agra and the driver only knew one word in english, no, at least I had the chaos of the road to keep me entertained. The amount of times we had to come to a screeching halt because of a herd of cows crossing the highway, or the excessive use of horns to let other cars know your changing lanes, no need to use the turn signal.
Alas, we reached the hotel, immediately I was instructed to go to the rooftop to see the view. Oh my! I could not believe I was staring at the Taj Majal, I felt so blessed, so fortunate, so grateful to be there. I quickly unpacked, ate a small amount of fried rice and soup, then off to Taj Majal. I was absolutely blown away how breathtaking every sight was. From the gardens to the stones inlaid on the marble of the Taj. I never knew the Koran was written in arabic throughout the Taj. I dont think the pictures can justify the magnitude of the beauty of the Taj Mahal.
After the visit, my guide took me to the place where they make marble tables, and use the ancient techniques to set the stones. After the explanation I was led into the showroom, marble table tops, jewlery boxes for $80, coasters $100, decorative plates, push salesman. Please madam, we ship. No thank you, I am not interested, I am pretty much homeless, no thanks. You send to momma, poppa. No thank you, I dont even have address. Its okay, we follow you to hotel. Right, finally I just left as he was speaking. Next stop, lets stop at the place where the stitch gems into rugs. Same thing, after the demo, please enter into showroom. No thank you! Purse. Oooh, how much. $100. Right, after a couple of minutes of insisting I dont want anything, I left, frustrated.
Aside from the Taj Majal, there is nothing to do in Agra. It is strongly advised to not go out at night, the town is littered with theives and pickpocketers, so off to bed I go. I woke to a bug crawling on my arm, so needless to say I didnt get much sleep. I did wake up with nausea and heartburn, uh oh, my first illness in India. If you know me, you should be equally impressed that it took a week to get sick. Today is a 6 hour drive to Jaipur, with a pit stop to visit a mosque. According to Lonely Planet and my guide from the Taj, strongly advise to not speak to anyone, carefully watch your bags and the entrance fee is only 260 rupees. Soon as I get out of the car, I was approaced by a man saying he worked for the governement and was a guide. I insisted I did not need a guide and I was fine. Well, guess who didnt stop following me to the gate. He instructed me the entrance was right this way. We entered into the mosque and it was full of locals, selling things, begging for money, peeing on the wall, "accidentally" bumping into you. I asked where to buy tickets and my shawdow said I buy for you 580 rupees. I dont think so. He starts to share some history and again I inform him I did not want a guide. But I am government, I official. Suddenly my stomach is a bit upset, I ask for the toilet, oh yeah, I am going to be sick. A man standing in front of the door is insisting I pay before I enter. "Please I go, then pay." I am rifiling through my bag, man refuses to let me pass, and he is still refusing to let me pass until I pay. I am not sure if it was my dinner, the heat, frustration, but yep, I puked right there. On the sacred grounds of the mosque. (There is your international inicident, whoever wrote that comment). I pay my 10 rupees and turn back to the car. That damn man is still following me, once I get into the car, he insists I pay him the 580 rupees we agreed upon. You entered, government rules. I went in paid to puke and left, I dont think so. My poor driver was so confused, I am telling him to go in the meantime arguing with this man trying to swindle me out of my money. A policeman starts heading in our direction, then shisty (excuse me) bastard leaves. Ok, one more day of tourist hot spots, then I no longer have to deal with these kind of people.
Jaipur has so much to see, I really wish I had more time there. The first place to visit is called Jantar Mantar ( calculation instrument). Built in the 1700's and scientists use to tell time, position of sun, and astrologists use to determine zodiak signs at time of birth. We then entered into the "pink city" walked around there, then had a stroll up to the main palace. I absolutely loved these sights. After a day of sightseeing I had Rajistani Thali, which I must say is the best food I had in India so far. Thali is a sampler plate consisting of soup, a sweet, naan and four different curries.... yum! Oh, but before I head back to Delhi, I have time to see a man who reads auras, no charge!
"Hello madam, I am here to read your aura. Please nevermind we are in my gem shop, it just feed my family, you no buy. First, your grandparent has arthritis?"
"No"
"Are you sure? Have you asked. One of them does"
"No sir, positive"
"But I see one of them does"
"Umm, all of my grandparents have passed away"
"Ok. Mother, father?"
"No"
"Then you do?"
"No"
"ok, well you or your mother or father will have it. First I see big blue aura, but 20%violet. Violet not good, means your tired, physically and mentally"
(really)
I honestly know nothing about auras or chakras, which apparently mine is blocked. He then tells me that I recently told my boyfriend I loved him and didnt mean it.
"I dont have a boyfriend"
"Ok, you like the girls"
"No and I do not have a significant other"
He continues on to tell me that my violet will get bigger if I dont unblock my chakras.
"Please tell me how I fix that"
"I have stone, you wear and it opens up. I tell you how much. 28,000 rupees, $620 us dollars"
"WHAT, Are you serious?"
"Yes madam"
"I am sorry but NO."
"But you need stones, to fix your chakra"
"I am here to work, not to buy gems, marble, $50 scarves. I am sorry but no"
"Not good choice, I see violet getting bigger"
Really, is my blue now masked my the color of fury? I pick up my bag and left.

Those past few days were very trying on my patience, which I realize I dont have much of in those situations.

14 August 2009

Hello India!

The car ride from the airport to the hotel was insane, however typical for cities like this. No one uses the lanes, cars weaving in between motorcycles, buses, pedestrians, effortlessly and failing to slow down. I was pretty impressed with Delhi, couldn't believe how green this town is, nothing as I imagined. Each tree fenced off with a sign posted "Green Delhi." As I started to soak this in, we turned a corner and entered into the intro of Slumdog Millionaire. The paved road turned into dirt, more narrow and lined with shops. Cows meandering in the road, holding up traffic, and the smell of rain was masked by the smell of sewage. We drove a few blocks and i was dropped at my hotel, right in the middle of the madness.
After I settled in, I went to enjoy some breakfast at the rooftop restaurant. A garden was located in the middle of the roof. The view consisted of a dozen children, flying kites on the roof of surrounding high rise buildings. After breakfast, I decided to step out and see if I can avoid these hagglers trying to lure me into their shops. That did last about 20 minutes and while asking for directions, I got directed into a tourism office and of course, was not very helpful. The gentleman helping me was trying to convince me to spend an unreasonable amount of money for a guided tour, another sucker walked in to this scam. It worked out, because I now had a fellow traveller to wander the streets of Delhi.
First sight was the Golden Temple. I couldn't fully understand the gentleman who explained the history, but it is a place where all religions are accepted, as long as you believe in only one god. The architecture of this building was amazing. Everything was made of marble, including the ground. There is a pool on the grounds where people with an ailment, injury or sickness bathe in and pray for healing.
This day was the celebration of Krishna, so there were celebrations everywhere. Women and children dressed in their finest saris, strands of orange flowers covering entryways of various temples. Inside, there was dancing, and many posing in scenes depicting the history of Krishna. At the Lakishna temple, lights blanketed this enourmous temple, better than christmas.
On the walk home, a slight detour was made. Somehow, we ended up outside of the tourist area, and was surrounded by locals. Since it was late in the evening, all the shops were closed and people were sleeping on the small bit of concrete in between the shops doors and the muddy road. I felt as if I were in a maze, dark, people starting to follow us while asking for money. Feeling slightly uneasy, we turned a corner, and came across another Krishna festival. This time, it was all children dressed up and dancing. As soon as the children had seen us, the started to approach us with warm greetings. The entire group were hams when it came to taking pictures, and of course I have many of those. But before we carried on, ( thought of you Lindsay :) ) I was dancing and shouting with the children!
Finally all my reservations, regrets about this are gone, I do miss everyone, but I am now ready and so very grateful for this adventure! Not to shabby for a first day!